Linnea Privacy Bolt Lock Installation

Step 1. Measure and mark where the bore and cross bore need to be. You can put this above or below your doorknob or lever set. I chose to put mine at 4 1/2" CC from the bore hole below. My privacy bolts were ordered with 2 3/8" backset, just like my Emtek Stainless Steel Hermes Levers, so I marked both the bore and cross bore lightly for drilling.

Step 2. Drill out the cross bore hole. I used a Wolfcraft drill guide I had kicking around the shop just to help keep the bit nice and straight. It helps, but you don't have to use one. You'll just want to be really careful you keep the drill bit straight. The depth just needs to be enough to fit the latch in the hole completely recessed. The diameter is a standard 1" crossbore used for doorknobs and deadbolts. I used a 1" paddle bit and it handled the job with ease.

GOOD ADVICE: Take it easy as you drill. Most doors these days have a hardwood edge with composite core. Once you hit that composite, the drill will eat through it much faster. If you're not careful you might have some issues.

Step 3. Drill the main bore hole for the thumbturn to pass through the throwbolt latch. This hole can be 3/8" - 5/8" in diameter. I used 5/8" just so I had a little more room to play with. I wouldn't go larger than that or it will be difficult to attach the decorative rosettes. The instructions from Linnea actually tell you to bore it at 2 1/8" - do not do this! If you do, you wont be able to install this lock. Their instructions need to be fixed.

This is what your door should look like at this point with a 1" cross bore and 5/8" bore hole. Now we'll move on to prepping for the throwbolt latch.

Step 4. Insert the throwbolt latch. Center the faceplate nicely and mark the outside edges on the door where it will need to be chiseled.

Step 5. Chisel out the door only about 1/8" deep or so using the marked edges. Remove enough material so that the latch will fit easily and sit flush with the door edge. The latch has a solid mounting plate that is covered with a thinner faceplate in the finish of your choosing.

This is what your throwbolt should look like installed.

GOOD ADVICE: If the thinner faceplate gets tweaked a little as you tighten the mounting screws, you can fold a piece of paper and place it over the faceplate and lightly tap it with a hammer to get it recessed in the mortised area. The paper will help protect the metal surface from getting damaged.

Step 6. Install the inside and outside mounting discs. The decorative faceplates that will go on the front and back of the door have a mounting disc that sit behind them. Insert the throwbolt spindle and knobs to make sure they spin freely and activate the throwbolt. Once you have verified that they work, attach the inside mounting hardware. Notice that there are three holes on each disc in a triangular pattern. For the outside mounting plate, you will follow the opposite triangular pattern for the mounting screws.

GOOD ADVICE: You'll want to alternate one mounting plate from the other. In my first picture there is a single hole above where the latch passes through, and in the next picture there are two holes, one on either side above the latch passing through. If you don't do this your mounting screws will hit each other, and if they are randomly placed, you may hit the throwbolt latch and the mounting screw will not recess completely.

Step 7. Attach decorative rosettes using the Allen wrench provided. Make sure the rosette stays parallel to the edge of the door as you tighten.

Step 8. Insert the thumbturn and spindle and tighten with the larger Allen wrench provided. You'll want to position the outside half of the spindle according to how you want the lock to work. For example, I set this one so that when the door is unlocked, the line on the exterior is vertical, horizontal when locked. You can do whatever you want.

Step 9. Mark the location on the jamb where the strike plate needs to be. To make sure this is in the right place, you can mark the end of the throwbolt with a marker or pencil, then shut the door and turn the latch as if you were locking the door. This should make a mark on the jamb. Then center the strike plate opening on that mark and trace it with a pen or pencil. (Don't make a crooked line like I did or you'll have to clean it off later!)

Step 10. Chisel the area for the strike plate. Carve out enough material so the plate sits flush, about 1/8" deep.

Step 11. Drill and carve out center area for the throwbolt. This is where the actual bolt will recess into the jamb upon locking. I used a 1/2" drill bit and drilled two holes one on top of the other, then cleaned it up with a chisel.

Step 12. Mount your strike plate and you are done.