Installing your Linnea PL160 pocket door hardware set is not difficult, but it does take a little patience and time to do it right. If you are not experienced with carpentry, you may want to hire someone to do this for you. Mortise style pocket door locks like these require a more complicated preparation than a typical pocket door lock, but they also provide a sleek, high end, modern look. Linnea's mortise pocket door locks are available in both round and square styles and a privacy and passage function. This installation is for a privacy set. Here is what you'll need:
List of tools:
- Sharp Chisel (1/2" and 1")
- Sharp Drill Bits - 3/8", 9/16", 1 5/16" and 1 9/16"
- Measuring tape & Metric ruler.
- Patience, and a helper wouldn't be bad to have around either.
|First you're going to measure up from the bottom of the door edge 36" and mark the door. This will be the bottom of your mortise lock box (not the bottom of the faceplate, but the box itself). Then mark the center of the door and draw a vertical line. If you're using a pen (like I was) be sure not to draw to far up. I drew just where I knew I'd be chiseling out. You may want to use a pencil if you don't want to worry about it. This center line will help you make sure the mortise lock box is centered and straight on the door.|
|Next measure down from the mortise box to the edge of the faceplate. Remember the 36" you measured before was to the bottom of the box itself, not the bottom of the faceplate. Next mark on the door where the bottom of the faceplate will be (should eb 35 1/4").|
|Now that you have the bottom measurement and center of the door edge, you can measure and mark the outside dimensions of the mortise box faceplate. You can check your work by placing the mortise box on the door edge, or even trace the faceplate on the door to mark where it needs to be chiselled out.|
|Once you have the faceplate on the edge of the door marked out, use a framing square to mark a pencil line on the surface of the door at the exact height as the bottom of the mortise box (36" from the bottom of the door). You can just measure from the bottom of the door, but it's always best to double check with a square to make sure everything lines up from one side of the door to the other.|
|Using the installation template provided from Linnea, fold it on the door edge line and line it up with the line you just made with pencil on the door surface. Then mark the centers of the holes you need to drill. I used a small finish nail and a hammer to tap in a start to keep my drill bit from shifting as I drilled. You may want to mark the exact centers of each of these holes on the template before marking. Linnea's template is accurate, but does not have an exact center marked on some of the holes. Taking the time to mark it out exactly will help you line everything up like it should be. There will be two small holes to and bottom (3/8" Bit), a large hole that is 1 9/16" (the one I am marking in the image) and then a series of 1 5/16" holes vertically above the largest one to clean out the center area shown on the template.|
|Drill out the top and bottom holes first, as it's more difficult to drill them and keep it exact once the large holes are drilled (the small holes are very close to the large holes). If you have one of these drill press attachements it will help you keep the drill bit exactly perpendicular to the door, but you don't have to have one. Drill out the largest hole first , then work your way up to the one at the top. Be careful as you drill. You may want to place masking tape on the surface of the door to reduce splintering around the edge of the hole. I drilled through until the very tip of my paddle bit punched through the other side, then finished off the hole from the other side of the door because these veneer door surfaces can be damaged pretty easily if you drill completely from one side. Just take you time so you can get a clean job the first time.|
|This is what your door should look like once you have drilled all the holes and cleaned out the center area.|
|Now that you have the main bore holes drilled out, use a sharp 1/2" chisel to clean out the mortised faceplate area on the edge of the door.|
|In the chiseled out area you just made, mark the center and top and bottom of where the mortise box will sit in the door.|
|Now drill out the area where the mortise box will go with a series of holes and clean it out with the drill bit and chisel so you have a clean square hole for the box to slide into.|
|This is what your prepped door should look like once all the holes are drilled and chiselled out. This door is a solid core commercial veneer door. The inside is made of composite material much like particle board shelving - if your door is like this, be careful drilling and prepping so that you don't remove too much material as the inner core is quite soft.|
|Now slide the mortise box into the square slot you have just created and fasten the box to the edge of the door with the screws provided.|
|Now install the trim plates on either side of the door with the spindle provided connecting the two through the square hole in the mortise box. You can test the mechanism and you'll notice it loosens up a bit with use. Do not over-tighten the two trim plates together as it will prevent the mechanism from working properly. Keep in mind that these trim plates are not meant to be recessed into the door completely. The plates are less than 1/8" thick, but they are meant to sit on the surface of the door with the mechanism recessed inside the door. You may want to double check the reveal on the trim around your pocket door to make sure that the door will recess into the pocket once this trim set is installed.|
|Now mark the jamb for installation of the strike plate. One way to help assure this is exactly where it needs to be is to extend the locking mechanism on the mortise box you just installed and shut the door into the jamb, then mark where it hits. When installing the strike plate, you'll notice that the strike plate hole is larger than you would think necessary. This larger size accomodates for the movement of the latch within the jamb when the mortise box activated and de-activated. Be sure you position the strike in the proper place to allow for this movement. Following the instructions on the template provided with the product by Linnea will help you put it in the exact plate it needs to be. Chisel out the area for the strike plate first, then mark and drill the hole where the mechansim will sit. Using the strike plate itself as a template will help you remove material where needed.|
Install the strike plate and you're finished. This is what you should have when complete. Now you can erase the pencil marks and clean up the mess you have made with all the drilling and chiseling throughout the process. Again, this is a fairly easy install if you have some carpentry experience, if not we'd recommend finding a handy man or carpenter to help you get the job done right.
You'll notice in this picture that we have also installed a Finger Pull below the mortise box. The Linnea PL-160 does not have a pull encorporated into the design on the edge of the door like some pocket door locks, so we installed a finger pull so that when the door was completely inside the pocket we could get it back out. Linnea makes the EP100 Finger Pull, but we wanted a square style for this application so we went with an Emtek 2221 Edge pull.
You can read up on the finger pull or edge pull installation if you'd like to see how that is done at our Emtek Edge Pulls Installation Guide